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Nov 14th 2016, 07:24 AM   #16
 dragracer1951's Avatar
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  Jan 2016
  Bremerton

  07 XB12 Buell Lightning
Quote:
Originally Posted by DGA
He he he...I would be, but I need to have this thing reliably starting first. Thanks Jim.
The auto decompress is just to let the starter motor turn the motor over TDC. I just back off the motor. Put it in gear and push it backwards until you get resistance. That gives it a full rev to get some momentum.
Another thing I did was to change the wiring from the battery to the starter to double ought wire. I used cable from the car stereo store. That reduced the voltage drop across the starter. Much more robust. I also wired my RR/VR direct to the battery.
A manual decompress works best though. Pull the lever and punch the button. Give it a couple turns and let go the lever. That's my prefered config.
I'd have to go look but I think I still have all the bits to do a manual decompresser.
Nov 14th 2016, 08:29 AM   #17
 equinity's Avatar
 
  Jan 2016
  Puyallup

  Yamaha FZ1
Quote:
Originally Posted by DGA
Mine runs really well once it starts, but right now it's nearly impossible to start. 2% of the time it starts on less than second of cranking, the other 98% it just says "No...fuck you!" Funny for a fuel injected bike. They are certainly finicky, but man are they fun when they run
Mine was having trouble starting, but it wasn't the cam, my valves need adjusted. A GasGas tech told me that if you can't see daylight they're too tight on the exhaust side. Once I did an adjustment, used the enrichment thingy on the throttle and gave it gas on start up, like almost WOT, it starts every time. Well except for now, but that's a different issue.

I adjusted my valves to the loosest of the specs that I could discern from the GG rider forum, I think I went out to just a touch over 0.008" on the exhaust and to 0.006 on the intake.
Nov 14th 2016, 04:47 PM   #18
DGA
 DGA's Avatar
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  Jan 2016
  PDX

  An Ape and a Husky
Quote:
Originally Posted by dragracer1951
The auto decompress is just to let the starter motor turn the motor over TDC. I just back off the motor. Put it in gear and push it backwards until you get resistance. That gives it a full rev to get some momentum.
Another thing I did was to change the wiring from the battery to the starter to double ought wire. I used cable from the car stereo store. That reduced the voltage drop across the starter. Much more robust. I also wired my RR/VR direct to the battery.
A manual decompress works best though. Pull the lever and punch the button. Give it a couple turns and let go the lever. That's my prefered config.
I'd have to go look but I think I still have all the bits to do a manual decompresser.
Thanks. I knew what it was for, just not sure which way to go really. I see what you mean about the manual one being the way to go though; keep the stock cam and get rid of any part off the auto decompressor that could fall into the engine and not think about the decompressor going bad again.

Starter is going to be the first thing I take a closer look at. I was going to do exactly what you said there, rewire it and straight to the battery. I was going to take the starter apart too, clean it, etc. It does sit right between the hot exhaust pipe and all the crud and water splashing from the front wheel on to it. Not the easiest environment for it to live in.

Quote:
Originally Posted by equinity
Mine was having trouble starting, but it wasn't the cam, my valves need adjusted. A GasGas tech told me that if you can't see daylight they're too tight on the exhaust side. Once I did an adjustment, used the enrichment thingy on the throttle and gave it gas on start up, like almost WOT, it starts every time. Well except for now, but that's a different issue.

I adjusted my valves to the loosest of the specs that I could discern from the GG rider forum, I think I went out to just a touch over 0.008" on the exhaust and to 0.006 on the intake.
Yup adjusted the valves a little while back, no change. Put on a manual chain tensioner, (the stock one is super tight) no change. Downloaded all the tables out of the ECU and reflashed it with starting tables from a newer model, no change... I'll certainly give the valves a once over again.

I'll get it figured out before spring time and get it to where it's reliable starter all the way.

Edited by DGA on Nov 14th 2016 at 04:56 PM
Nov 14th 2016, 04:53 PM   #19
 equinity's Avatar
 
  Jan 2016
  Puyallup

  Yamaha FZ1
I also heard that the honda hornet starter motor is a viable, stronger option.

Sent via SM-G930V
Nov 14th 2016, 04:58 PM   #20
DGA
 DGA's Avatar
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  Jan 2016
  PDX

  An Ape and a Husky
Quote:
Originally Posted by equinity
I also heard that the honda hornet starter motor is a viable, stronger option.

Sent via SM-G930V
Interesting and thanks, did not have a clue about that. Starter is one think that I found nothing on really. If it looked iffy, I was going to take it down and have it rebuilt.
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