|May 5th 2016, 09:31 AM||#1|
Ducati + KTM
Suspension Tuning Guide - Street Bike or Road Racing
Suspension Tuning Guide
Street Bike or Road Racing Applications
by Herb Varin
With incorrect suspension setup, tire wear is increased and handling suffers, resulting in rider fatigue. Lap times can be dramatically slower and overall safety for both street and race enthusiasts is another issue. Add the frustration factor and it just makes sense to properly setup your suspension. The following guide will help you dial in your suspension for faster and safer riding both on and off the track.
Basic Setup: Check the following
Forks: Lack of Rebound
Forks: Too Much Rebound
Forks: Lack of Compression
Forks: Too Much Compression
Adjustment Locations on Shocks
Shock: Lack of Rebound
Shock: Too Much Rebound
Shock: Lack of Compression
Shock: Too Much Compression
Stock Tuning Limitations
The factories plan on designing a bike that works moderately well for a large section of riders and usages. To accomplish this as economically as possible, manufacturers install valving with very small venturis. These are then matched to a very basic shim stack which creates a damping curve for the given suspension component. At slower speeds this design can work moderately well, but at higher speeds, when the suspension must react more quickly, the suspension will not flow enough oil, and will experience hydraulic lock. With hydraulic lock, the fork and/or shock cannot dampen correctly and handling suffers. The solution is to re-valve the active components to gain a proper damping curve. It does not matter what components you have, (Ohlins, Fox, KYB, Showa), matching them to your intended use and weight will vastly improve their action. Furthermore, if you can achieve the damping curve that is needed, it does not matter what brand name is on the component. Often with stock components, when you turn the adjusters full in or out, you do not notice a difference. In part, this is due to the fact that the manufacturer has put the damping curve in an area outside of your ideal range. Also, because the valves have such small venturis, the adjuster change makes very little difference. After re-valving, the adjusters will be brought into play, and when you make an adjustment, you will be able to notice that it affects the way the way the fork or shock performs.
Another problem with stock suspension is the springs that are used. Often they are progressive, increasing the spring rate with increased compression distance. This means that the valving is correct for only one part of the spring's travel, all other is compromise. If the factory does install a straight-rate spring, it is rarely the correct rate for the weight of the rider with gear. The solution is to install a straight-rate spring that matches the valving for the combined weight of the bike, rider and gear to the type of riding intended.
|May 9th 2016, 03:30 PM||#4|
2015 Ducati streetfighter, 2014 zx10 (race) 2010 R6 (race) 2013 ninja 1000 and a GSXR 600
Only guy I'd trust to work on my suspension is Barry at KFG/GP suspension
|May 9th 2016, 03:42 PM||#5|
|Sep 13th 2016, 03:08 PM||#6|
Came across a series of interesting articles today, and this looks like the right place for them.
Sportbike Suspension Guide | Sport Rider
This one in particular caught my attention. I installed emulators around the second season I had my bike and they made a huge difference.
Technicalities: Damping rod forks and the Race Tech Gold Valve Emulator | Sport Rider
|bike, guide, racing, road, street, suspension, tuning|
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