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Sep 9th 2018, 12:15 PM   #1
 
  Sep 2018
  Portland Oregon

Sudden starting issues. I need some advice...

Itís a 1980 Suzuki gs1000g.
I rode the bike 3 weeks ago, no issues.
I was trying to start the bike but it acted as if it had a low battery. (Barley turning over,)
I connected a trickle charger, it read that the battery was charged.
After I tried to start it for a bit, it stopped turning over and just make a clicking noise at the starter solenoid every time I tried to start it.
I tried to bypass the solenoid by touching the hot to the ground on the top of the solenoid. Bad idea. After that there was no clicking noise at all. I would push the starter button and nothing would happen.
I checked fuses. All good.
I got a new, but different style 12v solenoid connected and still nothing.

Now what?
Did I fry the Starter?
Did I fry the starter switch?
Is it because itís the incorrect solenoid?
Could it be something else?

Any info or advice is appreciated. Thank you for your time.
Sep 9th 2018, 01:06 PM   #2
 TREX600's Avatar
 
  Jan 2016
  Custer, WA

  Suzuki 09 GSXR 1000 Suzuki 09 DRZ 400SM 1970 Yamaha 250 DT1 Enduro
New battery.
Sep 9th 2018, 01:27 PM   #3
 Pavement Tested's Avatar
 
  Jan 2016
  Bremerton

  '12 ZG1400, '08 GSX1300R, '06 GSX-R 750
Your battery is kaput. Replace it and let us let us know the results.
Sep 9th 2018, 01:49 PM   #4
 MMcN49's Avatar
 
  Jan 2016
  Small Island Surrounded by Puget Sound

  07 Buell XB12STT, (Two) 12 Suzuki DR650 SE 72BMWR75/5 KIA @ 243K
Back in the days when they made real leaded gasoline, (not today's reformulated stuff) we had Lead/Acid battery's. They were pretty good but required some maintenance. One good thing about them was that you usually had plenty of warning when they started heading South.

Not so with today's AGM batteries. You can take off in the morning for a ride, stop for gas and the bike won't start, (ask me how I know). Absorbent Glass Mat (AGM) battery's give very little or no warning before dying. I'm proactive and only let mine go for two or three seasons now.
Sep 9th 2018, 04:37 PM   #5
 SilvieFox's Avatar
 
  Jan 2016
  welches, Oregon

  08Kawasaki Versys(Sylvester),72Suzuki RV90(vanvan),81Honda TwinStar(Bobber),Yamaha225,Honda Shadow
i would change the battery first (or try jumping it off another battery) and also check to make sure its not flooded (my gs had a bad float and if you didnt shut the fuel off after about a week it would flood/ hydro lock)
Sep 9th 2018, 05:24 PM   #6
 Suzuki Stevo's Avatar
 
  Jan 2016
  Seattle ,Wa

  Burgman 400, TW200, Boulevard M50, 2018 Indian Scout 1131, 2018 Indian Chieftain Classic
MC battery's are not as robust as automotive battery's, when they "die" they give little or no warning. I have had bikes that 3 years was the average lifespan of the battery...and I have had bikes that got over 8 years out of an AGM battery with a battery tender.

(CCPRYMMV)
Sep 9th 2018, 05:37 PM   #7
 cgt1229's Avatar
 
  Feb 2016
  Bellingham

  Suzuki
Join the GS Resources Forum, there's a specific test for your issues. The "quick test" in the electrical section is worthy if you have a multimeter. Likely the stator/rectifier failed, killing the battery, a problem with Suzuki bikes of this era.

The cure which I haven't tried yet is to install a Polaris regulator (SH775) that is not a shunt regulator...

They're middle age folks and beyond with knowledge, so the questions asked by freshies are scruntinized and they especially don't like when the bike in question is not mentioned.
Sep 10th 2018, 10:20 AM   #8
 
  Jan 2016
  Oregon

  2017 Kaw Ninja 1000 ABS (Z1000SX)
Quote:
Your battery is kaput. Replace it and let us let us know the results.
Yo.

It's always the battery.

You could try to jump start it off of a car to confirm that's the issue.

You could also pick up a automotive battery tester for about 20 bucks?

No way a trickle charger is a valid indicator of your battery corn-dishin'.

I hope you are using a Battery Tender. The Motorcyclist's Best Friend. The new, lighter and thinner ones are rully kewl.

Sep 10th 2018, 12:57 PM   #9
 Pavement Tested's Avatar
 
  Jan 2016
  Bremerton

  '12 ZG1400, '08 GSX1300R, '06 GSX-R 750
Here's a short cautionary tail about old batteries: Bike is a 2011 BMW with plenty of electronic gizmos, original battery and kept on a tender religiously from new. One day recently the owner decided to go for a ride. Removed the tender(which indicated fully charged), tried to start it and nothing. Since the bike has electronics the cluster showed an immobilizer error. The error was actually from battery voltage being too low and not the actual immobilizer itself. There was no prior indication of battery failure.



All of this is not to say that you don't have an electrical system issue with your bike. Charging system testing is easy an only requires a basic multimeter. That being said, you must have a good, fully charged battery to properly test the system. As stated above, Suzuki regulator/rectifiers have been suspect in the past.


Once you replace the battery, test your charging system to ensure proper operation.
Sep 10th 2018, 03:29 PM   #10
 Chrishil54's Avatar
 
  Jan 2016
  Kirkland

  2009 V-Star 1100 Custom
I don't know when they stopped putting kick starts on the GS line, but my 79 750 had one. If you bike still has one, try kicking it over. It will eliminate any electrical issues after the starter.
Sep 13th 2018, 05:35 AM   #11
 
  Sep 2018
  Portland Oregon

My trickle charger lied to me! It was a bad battery like many of you stated above. I really appreciate everyone’s response!
Sep 13th 2018, 05:38 AM   #12
 
  Sep 2018
  Portland Oregon

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chrishil54
I don't know when they stopped putting kick starts on the GS line, but my 79 750 had one. If you bike still has one, try kicking it over. It will eliminate any electrical issues after the starter.
No kick start on this one unfortunately.
Sep 13th 2018, 07:06 AM   #13
 Texasl's Avatar
Moderator
 
  Jan 2016
  Northeast Olalla

  07 Guzzi
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hendo
My trickle charger lied to me! It was a bad battery like many of you stated above. I really appreciate everyoneís response!
Many "trickle chargers" monitor battery terminal voltage because they already have a current limiter circuit, hence the term trickle. When a battery goes bad many times it is because it stratifies, so it only takes a surface charge, having no reserve.

Putting a multi-meter on the battery before placing the charger on will give you an idea on how the battery is charging. If voltage immediately jumps up to the 14(+) range there is no resistance being presented by the battery, ergo the battery is not actually taking a charge. Also, if the battery indicates charged, ie above 12.5 volts, watch terminal voltage when the key is turned on and then when the start button is pushed. If voltage drops like a rock the battery is quite suspect.
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Sep 13th 2018, 12:50 PM   #14
 Dubnut's Avatar
 
  Apr 2016
  My Garage

Don't jump a bike battery to a car, it's a good way to fry the motorcycle battery
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