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Aug 30th 2017, 05:02 PM   #1
 Dean B's Avatar
 
  Aug 2017
  Snohomish

  2004 cbr 1000rr
right when your done, something always gets stripped!

Hey guys. I'm going to make a long story short here. One of the bottom bolts of my stator cover is stripped. The bolt itself isn't stripped but when I pulled it out shreds of aluminum came with it.

That being said, what's the best fix (sense my bike is now leaking oil from the botom of the stator cover) I'm thinking about drilling it out slightly and using a Heli Coil to insert the same size bolt.

any of you guys experience this before???
Aug 30th 2017, 11:44 PM   #2
 675Rocket's Avatar
 
  Jan 2016
  Puyallup, WA

  2007 Triumph Daytona 675
right when your done, something always gets stripped!

2 options:

Fill the whole with a welder and re-drill and tap the hole.

Repair the thread with a time-sert. (These are the absolute best for repairing threads, but more difficult to get ahold of as they cannot be found in your typical auto parts store)

I personally have done both and have had great success.


Sent via iPhone

Edited by 675Rocket on Aug 31st 2017 at 08:40 AM
Aug 31st 2017, 06:59 AM   #3
 
  Apr 2016
  WA

Quote:
Originally Posted by 675Rocket

Repair the thread with a time-sett.
Time-sert I think auto correct got you.

If there is enough meat in the case a time-sert is an excellent way to go.
Aug 31st 2017, 07:04 AM   #4
 Mikeames's Avatar
 
  Jan 2016
  Vancouver WA

  2012 Yamaha FJR1300
Time-serts are spendy, but they work well. You can find them on Amazon Prime and have one here in two days if you can't find a set locally.
Again, expensive, but you'll always have it around should you need it again.
Aug 31st 2017, 08:30 AM   #5
 HalcyonSon's Avatar
 
  Apr 2016
  Renton

I had never seen Time-sert before. Very interesting. Not a wire coil like Heli-coil, but a machined solid that locks into the base metal.

Definitely pricey... the kit is 3x the price of a Heli-coil kit.
Aug 31st 2017, 08:31 AM   #6
 HalcyonSon's Avatar
 
  Apr 2016
  Renton

Quote:
Originally Posted by 675Rocket
Fill the whole with a welder and re-drill and tap the hole.

I personally have done both and have had great success.
Fill cast aluminum with a weld? How much of a pain in the ass is that?
Aug 31st 2017, 08:37 AM   #7
 675Rocket's Avatar
 
  Jan 2016
  Puyallup, WA

  2007 Triumph Daytona 675
right when your done, something always gets stripped!

Quote:
Originally Posted by HalcyonSon
Fill cast aluminum with a weld? How much of a pain in the ass is that?


If you know how to weld it's not bad at all. I had CBR with a broken tab from being downed. The tab had a threaded hole for one of the engine covers to mount to. I built up a weld to the rough size of the original tab and filed it down to size. I mounted the cover on so I could mark the exact location of the hole I needed to drill in my new tab. Then drilled and tapped it. I built up a weld for a whole mounting location so filling an existing whole with a weld should be cake. Just make sure you clean the area well that you are welding, to ensure a good bond.


Sent via iPhone
Aug 31st 2017, 08:43 AM   #8
 curve addict's Avatar
 
  Apr 2016
  Auburn, WA

  ...1987 Yamaha FZR1000...
+1 for time-sert. I have used them many times over the years; spendy, but very effective. The only time I'd be afraid to use a time-sert is if drilling out for it would leave too little metal remaining to properly hold the insert. Then you're stuck with the fill, drill and tap method.

Make sure that you drill and tap the hole squarely. ("Well duh, I know.")

Good luck

https://www.timesert.com/
Aug 31st 2017, 01:01 PM   #9
 HalcyonSon's Avatar
 
  Apr 2016
  Renton

Quote:
Originally Posted by 675Rocket
If you know how to weld it's not bad at all. I had CBR with a broken tab from being downed. The tab had a threaded hole for one of the engine covers to mount to. I built up a weld to the rough size of the original tab and filed it down to size. I mounted the cover on so I could mark the exact location of the hole I needed to drill in my new tab. Then drilled and tapped it. I built up a weld for a whole mounting location so filling an existing whole with a weld should be cake. Just make sure you clean the area well that you are welding, to ensure a good bond.
Cool. I was thinking of the old issue with cast iron. Something about heating the entire piece in an oven to avoid heat stress and cracking.
Aug 31st 2017, 01:06 PM   #10
 675Rocket's Avatar
 
  Jan 2016
  Puyallup, WA

  2007 Triumph Daytona 675
Quote:
Originally Posted by HalcyonSon
Cool. I was thinking of the old issue with cast iron. Something about heating the entire piece in an oven to avoid heat stress and cracking.


You are correct. That is only an issue with cast iron. You don't have to worry about that with an aluminum block. Should work fine with a wire feed welder and the correct wire.


Sent via iPhone
Sep 2nd 2017, 11:37 AM   #11
 Dean B's Avatar
 
  Aug 2017
  Snohomish

  2004 cbr 1000rr
Part of me was hoping everyone was going to say heli coil is fine and recommended

Luckily I happen to be a welder. So that's not a bad route to go either
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