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Aug 29th 2016, 03:22 PM   #16
 Chrishil54's Avatar
 
  Jan 2016
  Kirkland

  2009 V-Star 1100 Custom
Quote:
Originally Posted by outdoorgb
I only use the stuff which is refined off the thighs of 26-year-old virgins.
Yeah, but if HE were to shower more often, you'd loose the oil and HE would probably loose his V-Card...

Aug 29th 2016, 03:29 PM   #17
 MMcN49's Avatar
 
  Jan 2016
  Small Island Surrounded by Puget Sound

  07 Buell XB12STT, (Two) 12 Suzuki DR650 SE 72BMWR75/5 KIA @ 243K
Product Information: VALVOLINE VR-1 RACING MOTOR OIL

Valvoline VR-1 Racing Motor Oil is for use in any car, light truck, van, or SUV where API “SN” is recommended.

Valvoline VR-1 Racing Motor Oil is not recommended for use in wet clutches (use Valvoline 4-Stroke Motorcycle Oil).

Anti-Wear Additives: Zinc, 0.14, Phosphorus, 0.13. VR-1 Racing oil has 1,400 PPM Zinc, 1,300 Phosphorus and no Molybdenum.

-----------------

VALVOLINE 4-STROKE SYNTHETIC MOTORCYCLE OILS

Anti-Wear Additives:
Zinc, 0.112, 1120 PPM
Phosphorus, 0.100, 1000PPM.
Aug 29th 2016, 03:36 PM   #18
 
  Jan 2016
  Newcastle, WA

  1995 Suzuki Katana
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chrishil54
Yeah, but if HE were to shower more often, you'd loose the oil and HE would probably loose his V-Card...

To easy on him...

I was going to question if he meant bovine, equine or water borne mammal...

Sent via SM-N900T
Aug 29th 2016, 04:07 PM   #19
 equinity's Avatar
 
  Jan 2016
  Puyallup

  Yamaha FZ1, Aprilia RSV4 R
Quote:
Originally Posted by motoman
The issue is, no oil will fail. Some may provide more protection than others over the very long term, probably longer than you will have the bike. And possibly cost more than a rebuild!

Sent via Nexus 7
Define fail?

Thermal breakdown is far more complicated that just oil's ability to provide lubrication. A small portion to consider is its resistance to acidification. One of the most common tribology tests is for total acid number (TAN). TAN is directly connected to engine wear and oil effectiveness. As oil breaks down it becomes more acidic and we all know acid + metal is bad.

Shitty oil becomes more acidic, faster. As we already can agree this is bad, so use good oil.

I use Rotella T6. Lots of reasons, but a awesome combination of low cost, JASO-MA rating and quality make it my go to oil.

Sent via SM-G930V
Aug 29th 2016, 04:44 PM   #20
 SmokeyMcNug's Avatar
 
  May 2016
  Olympia, WA

  1996 Kat 600 "Ras-tana"
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnyM
Oil, not fuel. Jeez, man...get it together.
where do u think i get the bacon grease for it?
Sep 1st 2016, 09:20 AM   #21
 JohnnyM's Avatar
 
  Jan 2016
  Pullman, WA

  '73 CB350F, '86 VFR750F, '00 Aprilia RS250, '04 Aprilia RSV1000 R Factory(x2), '07 Star 1100 Classic
I use white tears.
Sep 1st 2016, 11:43 AM   #22
 mjh937's Avatar
 
  Feb 2016
  Bellingham, WA

  Yamaha FZ-07
Quote:
Originally Posted by SmokeyMcNug
I installed a flux capacitor so i just use garbage
It is the Mr. Fusion that uses garbage to power the flux capacitor. Do not put garbage in to your flux capacitor...Boy, am I a nerd
Sep 1st 2016, 01:05 PM   #23
 SmokeyMcNug's Avatar
 
  May 2016
  Olympia, WA

  1996 Kat 600 "Ras-tana"
Quote:
Originally Posted by mjh937
It is the Mr. Fusion that uses garbage to power the flux capacitor. Do not put garbage in to your flux capacitor...Boy, am I a nerd
Damn...i was wondering why it was running rough. back to amazon.com i go.

Or oreillys...
http://www.geeky-gadgets.com/oreilly...on-2011-11-25/
mjh937 likes this.

Edited by SmokeyMcNug on Sep 1st 2016 at 01:11 PM
Sep 3rd 2016, 05:38 PM   #24
 Skiffman's Avatar
 
  Apr 2016
  Kitsap

  Yamaha Venture --Victory Octane
I find Rotella leaves less of a sheen on the lake after I dump my crankcase on the ground. Been using that stuff forever and it only kills red ants and cutthroat trout...,
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