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  • 3 Post By WarpShatner7
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Aug 6th 2016, 10:13 AM   #1
 Flyboymedic's Avatar
 
  Jan 2016
  Hazel Dell, Wa

  Honda VFR800, Husqvarna TE 610, Ducati Hypermotard 1100S
Post The Lowdown On Motorcycle Oil

Here's an informative oil article:
The Lowdown on Motorcycle Engine Oil | Motorcyclist
Aug 6th 2016, 11:53 AM   #2
 equinity's Avatar
 
  Jan 2016
  Puyallup

  Yamaha FZ1, Aprilia RSV4 R
Good article. Huge over simplifications, but still informative.

For the most part, most of the "synthetics" in the US are API Group III's. How a Group III synthetic differs from a conventional oil is actually pretty simple. These synthetics are built from the "top, down." Meaning that a 10W-40 synthetic's base is 40w oil and then modifiers are added to reduce the cold viscosity to 10w. A conventional oil is the exact opposite, they start with a 10w oil and then add modifiers to make it 40w while warm.

Ari mentioned esters in his article which I thought was interesting. Group IV oils are fully synthetic oils based from polyalphaolefins (PAOs). If olefin sounds a little familiar, does any one remember Oleo? Group V synthetics are "the shit" when it comes to oils and can contain esters. This is where Silkolene lives. As Ari pointed out, Silkolene clearly advertises its fully ester composition on the label. It's also why Silkolene is so f'ing expensive.

Just incase anyone is wondering, after having looked at the SDS (safety data sheet) for Amsoil, I'm pretty sure it's a Group III synthetical just like T6 or Yamalube.
Aug 6th 2016, 01:16 PM   #3
 
  Jun 2016
  Seattle

yamalube synthetic has ester doesn't that make it group 4?
Aug 6th 2016, 01:54 PM   #4
 equinity's Avatar
 
  Jan 2016
  Puyallup

  Yamaha FZ1, Aprilia RSV4 R
Quote:
Originally Posted by azn370z
yamalube synthetic has ester doesn't that make it group 4?
Yamalube fully synthetic may very well be Group V, but I'm not sure. I'm having a hard time finding a SDS or an old MSDS for it. Since Yamalube is Japanese, it's very possible that it is a true synthetic, and since it does contain esters it would make it a Group V. Still not as good of an oil as Silkolene XP (completely ester), but nevertheless a quality oil.
Dec 19th 2016, 02:07 PM   #5
 elSueco's Avatar
 
  Feb 2016
  Seattle

  ZX14 Barking Spider
Quote:
Originally Posted by RasarusKn
...Fuel dissoluble materials are seized up by the eubstance and maintained human than the polar, wet soluble, chemicals. 4. K donnish aspect trazodone causes erectile dysfunction...
If synthetic oil gives your motorcycle an erection lasting more than four hours, consult a mechanic...
Dec 19th 2016, 02:15 PM   #6
 FeralRdr's Avatar
 
  Jan 2016
  Adjacent to the Hobbit Garage

Quote:
Originally Posted by elSueco
If synthetic oil gives your motorcycle an erection lasting more than four hours, consult a mechanic...
Actually, I'd be more worried about exhaust leakage.
Dec 19th 2016, 02:48 PM   #7
 Rustydust's Avatar
 
  Jan 2016
  Emmett Idaho

  2010 Honda Goldwing, 2007 Suzuki Burgman 650, 2005 Kawasaki KLR 650, 1995 Honda PC800
A couple of months ago I sent in an oil sample to Blackstone taken out of my 2010 Honda GL1800. I ran the oil (and filter) for 10,000 miles. The oil that I used was Shell Rotella T6 5W/40. In a nutshell, the oil tested better than their typical samples that were taken at 5,200 miles averages. They said that if I wanted to extend my oil changes further than 10K that it would be fine but I'm not going to. Every 10,000 miles is plenty good for me and besides, it makes it easy to remember too.

Sure, there is nothing at all wrong with changing oil sooner than you have to. Piece of mind is a Good Thing after all. But when I know that it's just waste of time and money for me to do so I will not be going back to my 5K changes. At least not on my Goldwing anyway.
Dec 19th 2016, 06:05 PM   #8
 equinity's Avatar
 
  Jan 2016
  Puyallup

  Yamaha FZ1, Aprilia RSV4 R
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rustydust
A couple of months ago I sent in an oil sample to Blackstone taken out of my 2010 Honda GL1800. I ran the oil (and filter) for 10,000 miles. The oil that I used was Shell Rotella T6 5W/40. In a nutshell, the oil tested better than their typical samples that were taken at 5,200 miles averages. They said that if I wanted to extend my oil changes further than 10K that it would be fine but I'm not going to. Every 10,000 miles is plenty good for me and besides, it makes it easy to remember too.

Sure, there is nothing at all wrong with changing oil sooner than you have to. Piece of mind is a Good Thing after all. But when I know that it's just waste of time and money for me to do so I will not be going back to my 5K changes. At least not on my Goldwing anyway.
I'd be curious <i>how<\i> it tested better. Not that I doubt the results, I'm just interested in the parameters they are comparing, i.e. TA, viscosity, etc. and which ASTM methods they're using.

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Dec 19th 2016, 10:40 PM   #9
 Rustydust's Avatar
 
  Jan 2016
  Emmett Idaho

  2010 Honda Goldwing, 2007 Suzuki Burgman 650, 2005 Kawasaki KLR 650, 1995 Honda PC800
Quote:
Originally Posted by equinity
I'd be curious <i>how<\i> it tested better. Not that I doubt the results, I'm just interested in the parameters they are comparing, i.e. TA, viscosity, etc. and which ASTM methods they're using.
Dang, but I wish that I could figure out how to paste the whole test and I would let you read if for yourself. They do test elements in parts per million and my 10,000 mile test had less ALUMINUM CHROMIUM IRON COPPER LEAD TIN MOLYBDENUM NICKEL SILVER TITANIUM POTASSIUM BORON SILICON SODIUM CALCIUM PHOSPHORUS ZINC BARIUM (copied and pasted) then the average oil did at 5200 mile intervals. Only my magnesium was higher.

The test only cost $27 and I will not pay to have it done again. I dont need to now as they answered my question. Keep using Rotella T6 and 10,000 mile oil changes are just fine. Made me happy.
Dec 20th 2016, 10:24 AM   #10
 JohnnyM's Avatar
 
  Jan 2016
  Pullman, WA

  '73 CB350F, '86 VFR750F, '00 Aprilia RS250, '04 Aprilia RSV1000 R Factory(x2), '07 Star 1100 Classic


I HATE oil threads.
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Sep 27th 2017, 05:41 PM   #11
 76Twin's Avatar
 
  Sep 2017
  Kingston, WA

  1976 Honda CB500T - highly customized.
I use Shell Rotella T4 and T6 for mine.
This oil is cheap and readily available and will meet JASO MA rating which is very useful for wet clutches.
Sep 28th 2017, 09:17 AM   #12
 HalcyonSon's Avatar
 
  Apr 2016
  Renton

Quote:
Originally Posted by 76Twin
I use Shell Rotella T4 and T6 for mine.
This oil is cheap and readily available and will meet JASO MA rating which is very useful for wet clutches.
Just had to go and revive an oil thread that's been dead for nearly a year? opcorn:
Sep 28th 2017, 11:47 AM   #13
 76Twin's Avatar
 
  Sep 2017
  Kingston, WA

  1976 Honda CB500T - highly customized.
Quote:
Originally Posted by HalcyonSon
Just had to go and revive an oil thread that's been dead for nearly a year? opcorn:

Just making sure you weren't asleep or something. Yeah I'm sticking with that story
Sep 28th 2017, 07:57 PM   #14
 WarpShatner7's Avatar
 
  Jan 2016
  Stumpy Puddleton

  R1200ST, CB350
I use only fair-trade first cold press extra-virgin diester oil extracted from a rare oil-bearing flower cultivated in a monastic garden by self-determining indigenous people in an uncontacted village high in the mountains of a country I'm not allowed to tell you about, which is then artisanally refined in a communal makerspace by manbun-wearing lifehackers oh fuck I can't keep going with this
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Sep 29th 2017, 07:04 AM   #15
 FeralRdr's Avatar
 
  Jan 2016
  Adjacent to the Hobbit Garage

Quote:
Originally Posted by WarpShatner7
I use only fair-trade first cold press extra-virgin diester oil extracted from a rare oil-bearing flower cultivated in a monastic garden by self-determining indigenous people in an uncontacted village high in the mountains of a country I'm not allowed to tell you about, which is then artisanally refined in a communal makerspace by manbun-wearing lifehackers oh fuck I can't keep going with this
Sorry to tell you this, but if it isn't labeled "Organic", it's still not organic.
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