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Sep 5th 2019, 07:47 PM   #1
 Parilla125's Avatar
 
  Jan 2016
  SeaTac

EFM Auto Clutch

I installed one on my VStrom 1000 and figured someone may be interested.
It works like a centrifugal clutch. You send in your clutch basket to EFM in Ohio, he modifies it and you install it. Most of the time it requires at least some grinding of the side case to get it so the billet clutch hat/plate he makes clears the case.
I put a light smear of quick drying paint on the supports and left the gasket out while using a couple long bolts to align the case. Removing material until it was close, then I would lightly tighten it down and spin the engine by hand and grinding until it did not hit. Put the gasket on and finished putting it together.
It works well, but definitely requires a different style of riding. The clutch lever is there and is very light but it only works up to about 4500 RPM, where the clutch pressure overcomes the lever pressure and renders the clutch useless from that RPM on. It will compression brake down to about 1500 RPM where the auto clutch releases the plates and the engine drops to idle. About 1000 RPM in my case. I can sit at a light, clutch out, in gear with no dragging. The clutch starts to engage at about 1200 RPM and locks solid just a few hundred RPM above that.
When on the road downshifts are ‘clunky’ and take some getting used to. If you are thinking about getting one take your bike out riding, don’t use the clutch, keep the RPMs above 2500 and shift up and down. If you don’t like it or can’t get used to it you may not like it. Any compression braking will make it harder to shift down once the clutch is locked up.
Kinda long, but I hope it helps!

Edited by Parilla125 on Sep 5th 2019 at 07:49 PM Reason: Missed word.
Sep 5th 2019, 08:56 PM   #2
 liberpolly's Avatar
 
  Jan 2016
  Seattle

  Ducati Diavel, Aprilia Scarabeo
Thanks, was thinking about it for wive's bike!
Sep 5th 2019, 10:04 PM   #3
 Flyboymedic's Avatar
 
  Jan 2016
  Hazel Dell, Wa

  Honda VFR800, Husqvarna TE 610, Ducati Hypermotard 1100S, Suzuki VStrom 650, Yamaha Radian, MZ 125SM
I recently bought a 1st gen 650 and while this doesn't apply to me, I appreciate the info and it's what I miss about this place and wish we had more of.
Sep 6th 2019, 11:08 AM   #4
 
  Jan 2016
  Oregon

  2018 Kaw Ninja H2 SX SE
Nice.

Not to threadjack, I have a Honda V4 VFR1200X DCT, which is basically Auto Trans.

The thing is AWESOME. No Clutch lever, No Shift lever. It will shift for you, up and down all day long although I usually shift it myself using the small levers for up + and down - on the left side of the bar. I can flick that little lever and be down the road faster than any quickshifter. You can also shift it yourself even while in Auto mode.

Let me tell you, once you get used it it, this thing will spoil you fast.

How much is the EFM?
Sep 6th 2019, 07:47 PM   #5
 Parilla125's Avatar
 
  Jan 2016
  SeaTac

Around $800 in all. I had looked at the DCT bikes but bought a Yamaha TMAX 530 Sport Scooter for commuting. Love that thing. I bought the VStrom new and it had the stiffest clutch of my 5 clutch bikes. It is a hydraulic clutch too! It was either auto it or sell it. I decided to give it a shot. I may look into a different master to make it an easier pull if I can’t get smooth with the EFM.

Edited by Parilla125 on Sep 6th 2019 at 07:51 PM
Sep 7th 2019, 03:13 PM   #6
 MMcN49's Avatar
 
  Jan 2016
  Small Island Surrounded by Puget Sound

  07 Buell XB12STT, (Two) 12 Suzuki DR650 SE 72BMWR75/5 KIA @ 243K
I also purchased one for my DR650 about the same time Richard purchased his. It is not working out. It usually doesn't bind upshifting but the gear always slams in with a fair size jolt, no matter what RPM I shift at, or how much I try to finesse it. Downshifting is more difficult. Seems to be a very narrow RPM window where it will shift.

When purchased I asked if the clutch handle would still operate. They said absolutely. They also said that I might have to grind a little inside the clutch cover. Both were Inaccurate Statements.

Ended up grinding all the web and into the clutch cover itself. There's minimal clearance between the Auto Clutch and Clutch Cover. Absolutely no room for the clutch handle Pinion Release Shaft, thus no clutch handle.

It was a lot of work to install and not at all happy at the outcome. I'm going to purchase new parts and put the manual clutch back in. This IMO is a DO NOT BUY item.
Sep 7th 2019, 06:15 PM   #7
 Parilla125's Avatar
 
  Jan 2016
  SeaTac

I know some of the dirt riders use them and really like them but the ones I know of are smaller and lighter bikes.
If I ride my VStrom 1000 in a ‘non spirited’ fashion and do all my shifting below 4000 RPM it is smooth for the most part and I can use the clutch for downshifting (and up shifting).
Actually upshifting is fairly good even getting on it pretty hard and higher RPM’s. It is the downshifting that is some clunky.
For me it IS a compromise so I can ride it in heavy stop and go without having my clutch hand just quit all together. I have the riding style down a bit more after putting more miles on it and will leave it in. Well, for now anyway.
Sep 7th 2019, 07:22 PM   #8
 
  Apr 2016
  WA

Had a rekluse that came with an XR650R I bought. That came out pronto. Made shifting too clunky and no way to dip into the clutch to loft the front end. No thank you.
Sep 8th 2019, 04:06 AM   #9
 MMcN49's Avatar
 
  Jan 2016
  Small Island Surrounded by Puget Sound

  07 Buell XB12STT, (Two) 12 Suzuki DR650 SE 72BMWR75/5 KIA @ 243K
The EFM might operate better/smoother if I had the clutch lever. I don't so I'll never know. Went this route because of hand issues, (age, old injuries and disease).

Had two wrist/hand surgeries and two months of hand therapy since March. Stitches from the second surgery were removed last Thursday and things are looking up. Finally no pain and the hand is stronger.

Going to play with clutch pull on both Buell's and the DR. If I can move the lever closer to the handle and use mainly the lower part of my fingers to pull I may be able to keep my three bikes.

Yesterday I sat on a Honda CTX700 DCT and a NC750X DCT. Didn't care for either.
Sep 9th 2019, 02:44 PM   #10
 PeteN95's Avatar
Moderator
 
  Jan 2016
  Muklilteo, WA

  Suzuki DL1000, Honda XR650R, KTM 250 XC-W
I have a Rekluse in my XR650R and Vstrom 1000 and they work great with the clutch lever usable any time. No need to modify the covers either. Both bikes will wheelie on pure throttle up to 3rd gear, so I don't really use the lever except to shift while going slow on the street.
Sep 9th 2019, 04:15 PM   #11
 Parilla125's Avatar
 
  Jan 2016
  SeaTac

Quote:
Originally Posted by PeteN95
I have a Rekluse in my XR650R and Vstrom 1000 and they work great with the clutch lever usable any time. No need to modify the covers either. Both bikes will wheelie on pure throttle up to 3rd gear, so I don't really use the lever except to shift while going slow on the street.
What year Strom? Mine is a 2012 and they did not show a clutch set up for it.
Sep 10th 2019, 03:05 PM   #12
 PeteN95's Avatar
Moderator
 
  Jan 2016
  Muklilteo, WA

  Suzuki DL1000, Honda XR650R, KTM 250 XC-W
Quote:
Originally Posted by Parilla125
What year Strom? Mine is a 2012 and they did not show a clutch set up for it.
Mine is a 2006 and they do not currently sell one for the 1000s. Mine has a prototype version that I have been running for a couple of years. Strangely, it has the same plates as a Harley?!
Sep 10th 2019, 06:48 PM   #13
 Sentinel's Avatar
 
  Jun 2016
  Poor Tortured

  2019 Nada
lol i was out at "grinding".
nope
Sep 11th 2019, 05:19 PM   #14
 Parilla125's Avatar
 
  Jan 2016
  SeaTac

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sentinel
lol i was out at "grinding".
nope
Mine was some of the inner webbing (bracing) on the inside of the cover directly over the pressure plate. Doubt it would be an issue unless I hit that part on something but I understand your hesitation. It is mostly the bolt heads he installs that are sticking up around the outside edge.
After spending even more time with it I like it as long as I ride with the style it demands and will keep it in.
Sep 22nd 2019, 11:59 AM   #15
 Parilla125's Avatar
 
  Jan 2016
  SeaTac

Been riding with it most every day and the plus to minus ratio is tipping slightly to the minus side.
If it was in an easy going 'touring only' bike it would be different, but I like to use the performance aspect and ride 'spirited' at times. It makes it nearly impossible for that. In a lighter dirt bike I could see it not being an issue, but when you are talking nearly 600 lbs empty, on a traction surface that does not give much. Not great.
Once the rpm's get above the 4500 mark it basically locks up. Once you get a bit above that it locks so solid you can't get it out of gear without some drama, and doing it smooth without really working at it is a 'no go'. It comes down to torque. If there are forces on the drive train it will not let go, so you have to try and feather the throttle to where you are in a 'forces neutral' area to shift. Down more that up. If I am under hard de-acceleration and the RPM's are above 4500 it is not coming out of gear. Not up, not down. That is a bit unnerving. Get to the 'neutral zone' and you can shift, or at least get it out of the gear you were in. Not impossible, but hard to do and have it smooth at all. Particularly where the bike has a fair amount of torque and the throttle is sensitive.
I think part of the minus is I have to work at it and think about what I am doing to even get close to being smooth. I don't want to have to think about upshifts, downshifts and matching RPM's. It ain't no DCT where it just works and does stuff for you. It is a compromise all the way around and I am not sure I want to keep fighting with it.
So at this point it is in there and I need to figure out what I want to do and how much time and screwing around I want to do with it.

Edited by Parilla125 on Sep 22nd 2019 at 12:04 PM
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