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Nov 11th 2016, 12:46 PM   #1
 
  May 2016
  Milwaukie, OR

  2011 ZX-6R; 2009 F800GS
Captive rear spacer kit

Have any of you folks bought/used a captive rear spacer kit? I'm tempted to do this one: ZX6R Rear Captive Spacers

The rear wheel is a total bitch to remount on my ZX-6R, as there's a loose spacer on each side, a mobile rear brake caliper, and about 1 mm or less of clearance, even when I'm careful to get the sprocket carrier squished up tight on the hub.

As I change my own tires and do 5-7 tire changes a year for street/track, it might help....or might be a gimmick.

Thoughts?! Honestly, it's not much money, just curious if anyone's done this.
Nov 11th 2016, 01:47 PM   #2
 MarvTravis's Avatar
 
  Jan 2016
  Kirkland, WA

  Kawasaki ZX-14
I've found an easier way to reinstall the rear wheel.

Before removing the wheel, remove the brake caliper from the caliper holder, (because the caliper mounting bolts are tight, and are best removed while caliper holder is held in place).

When you're ready to reinstall the wheel, rather than inserting the axle from the sprocket side, partially install the axle from the rotor side, and into the brake caliper holder which will hold the caliper holder in position and keep it from flopping around. Verify the spacer tube within the wheel is centered between the bearings. Then, put the wheel spacers in the wheel, lift the wheel into place, and fully insert the axle. Remount the brake caliper on the caliper holder using anti-seize on the bolts.

On the ZX-14, although the exploded view shows the axle being installed from the sprocket side, it makes no difference whether the axle is inserted from the sprocket side or from the rotor side. With the brake caliper removed, and the brake caliper holder held in place by the axle from the rotor side, it makes it so much easier than trying to keep everything in position while raising the wheel into position and trying to insert the axle from the sprocket side.
Nov 11th 2016, 01:58 PM   #3
 mgfchapin's Avatar
 
  Jan 2016
  Kirkland, WA

  '15 675R
Yes. Captive spacers are worth every penny and most aftermarket wheels come with them. That kit you linked is a bit pricey, though. You should be able to get front & rear for that much.
Nov 11th 2016, 05:00 PM   #4
 MotoCT's Avatar
 
  May 2016
  Troutdale

  09 ZX6R Monster Energy
https://madscientistmoto.com/product...kawasaki-zx6r/
A reputable forum member of ZX6R.COM designed this tool. He is also a top expert racer in the New England area. He also switched the axle to feed in from the sprocket side as mentioned above.
I use a socket set carrier to rest the rear wheel on and bring it up to the perfect height to slide the axle in and align the spacers and caliper bracket. Pit Bull stands actually makes a tire wedge that connects to the rear stand and raises up the wheel.
I do have to remove the caliper though.
Nov 12th 2016, 03:51 PM   #5
 
  May 2016
  Milwaukie, OR

  2011 ZX-6R; 2009 F800GS
Thank you, gentlemen - that ZX-6R axle tool looks pretty handy...! Captive spacers likely will work nicely on this bike - I'll get a set "soon."

Good idea to try to run the axle through from the sprocket side - that may help a little bit - the caliper (which isn't bolted on with a ZX-6R, unlike the -14) side is the one that typically causes the most difficulty.

Happy weekend!
Nov 14th 2016, 07:54 AM   #6
 
  Jan 2016
  Seattle

One other trick, and this works with all modern bikes, is to use your knee to collapse the rear brake caliper before you remove the rear wheel. This gives you more room to work when trying to get the rotor back in between the pads.
Nov 14th 2016, 08:56 AM   #7
 
  Jan 2016
  Woodland, WA

This is a job that requires an extra set of hands. A wife works well for this.
Nov 14th 2016, 08:38 PM   #8
 
  Sep 2016
  Marysville, WA

I bought the Fast Frank captive spacers for a S1000RR. They make wheel changes a bit easier since you don't have to worry about them falling out, but really I think any brand would probably work just as good. I think Driven makes them as well.

The advantage of buying from FFR is the support. I had some questions and they responding very quickly and were very helpful.

Wish I could justify spending the $$$ on the whole quick change axle kit
Nov 16th 2016, 08:28 AM   #9
 
  May 2016
  Milwaukie, OR

  2011 ZX-6R; 2009 F800GS
Yes, I would be really happy with the quick change axle kit, too.....but not for $500+!

I do usually remember to spread the pads in the rear caliper before remounting the rear tire. That does make it easier - zip-tying the caliper in place also helps a bit. Those damned spacers need to be corralled, though. I tried using my wedge for splitting wood as a ramp for the rear tire (like the pitbull system), and that was slightly easier.
Nov 16th 2016, 05:26 PM   #10
 MarvTravis's Avatar
 
  Jan 2016
  Kirkland, WA

  Kawasaki ZX-14
[QUOTE=Syringe;27878] Good idea to try to run the axle through from the sprocket side - that may help a little bit - the caliper (which isn't bolted on with a ZX-6R, unlike the -14) side is the one that typically causes the most difficulty. QUOTE]

The brake caliper on the 2011 ZX-6R is bolted to the caliper holder with two 8 X 20 bolts. Before removing the wheel, unbolt the brake caliper from its holder while the holder is still in place, (because these two bolts are really tight). With the caliper removed from its holder, it will be much easier to reinstall the wheel. After reinstalling the wheel, put anti-seize on the two caliper mounting bolts and remount the caliper.

Edited by MarvTravis on Nov 16th 2016 at 08:22 PM
Nov 17th 2016, 08:41 AM   #11
 
  May 2016
  Milwaukie, OR

  2011 ZX-6R; 2009 F800GS
[QUOTE=MarvTravis;28000]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Syringe View Post
Good idea to try to run the axle through from the sprocket side - that may help a little bit - the caliper (which isn't bolted on with a ZX-6R, unlike the -14) side is the one that typically causes the most difficulty. QUOTE]

The brake caliper on the 2011 ZX-6R is bolted to the caliper holder with two 8 X 20 bolts. Before removing the wheel, unbolt the brake caliper from its holder while the holder is still in place, (because these two bolts are really tight). With the caliper removed from its holder, it will be much easier to reinstall the wheel. After reinstalling the wheel, put anti-seize on the two caliper mounting bolts and remount the caliper.

I looked at the bike this morning, and you're right - there are two 8x20 bolts there...hadn't noticed them previously. There is some copper anti-seize floating around in my toolkit, so I will apply it after I break those two loose. Thank you for the tip!
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