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Sep 11th 2016, 02:45 PM   #1
 CaptainAwesome's Avatar
 
  Jan 2016
  WA

  Lowrider S
Bad stator?

Edit: Fz1 second gen parts list

2D1-81410-10-00 STATOR ASSY
2SH-81450-00-00 ROTOR ASSY Generator
93210-18322-00 O-RING Starter
5VY-11478-00-00 COLLAR Starter
93306-20230-00 BEARING Starter
93306-20124-00 BEARING Crankcase Cover 1
2D1-15451-10-00 GASKET, CRANKCASE COVER 1 Crankcase Cover 1
4C8-13414-00-00 GASKET, STRAINER COVER Oil Cleaner


90149-06066-00 Screw** You need 3 of these. The ones installed by the factory are over tightened and can't be reused (or you can risk $600 in parts for $4 in screws)

For anyone searching in the future.


Online manual:
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/76...age=263#manual

Criss cross pattern for the oil pan. Don't over tighten:

Headers : 11ft/lb
Oil pan bolt: 8.7 ft/lb with loctite on center bolt (by itself)
Drain bolt: 31 ft/lbs
oil level switch bolt: 7.2 ft/lbs

I don't have the other ones off hand but they're in the manual I linked to (couple pages on just torque specs)
-------------------------------------


original post:
Pretty sure my stator has gone bad but I wanted to verify it before going through the work and cost of replacing it.

Bike ran fine, pulled over for gas, couldn't get it started again. Didn't work to push start it. Acted like a dead battery.

Jumped it, but it drained quickly and died within a minute or so of taking off the cables.

Put in a new battery as I was about 50 miles from home thinking maybe the battery was shot and wouldn't hold a charge anymore (plus it was the only thing I could do on the road). Died on the freeway about 20 miles later, seemed to run fine but once I had to slow down for traffic, pulled the clutch in (RPMS dropped to idle) the oil light came on and it died out in a few seconds.

Charged the battery, started up fine. (old one was 3 years old by the PO's records)

Was at 13.2 Volts after the charge but before running it at all.
12.27 when running.
12.28 when reving.
12.9 when off.


I've had the R/R go out on another bike and it cooked the battery, this is my first experience with replacing a stator.

Am I correct in thinking I have the right problem? Do they just go out like that?

Thanks.

Edited by CaptainAwesome on Oct 8th 2016 at 10:48 AM
Sep 11th 2016, 03:14 PM   #2
 MarvTravis's Avatar
 
  Jan 2016
  Kirkland, WA

  Kawasaki ZX-14
If your charging system is functioning properly, you should see >13.5 vdc when engine is running at 3K - 4K rpm.
Sep 11th 2016, 03:21 PM   #3
 SilvieFox's Avatar
 
  Jan 2016
  welches, Oregon

  2008 Kawasaki Versys (Sylvester), 1972 Suzuki RV90 (vanvan), 1981 Honda TwinStar (Bobber),yamaha 225
sounds like a dead stater to me
Sep 11th 2016, 03:28 PM   #4
 MMcN49's Avatar
 
  Jan 2016
  Small Island Surrounded by Puget Sound

  07 Buell XB12STT, (Two) 12 Suzuki DR650 SE 72BMWR75/5 KIA @ 243K
Before replacing anything you need to do a little troubleshooting. There should be a diagnostic procedure in your factory shop manual. If you don't own a manual that should be your first purchase.

With the manual and a Volt-Ohmmeter you should be able to figure it out. I'm not familiar with your bike and cannot make any suggestions where to begin.
Sep 11th 2016, 03:46 PM   #5
 MMcN49's Avatar
 
  Jan 2016
  Small Island Surrounded by Puget Sound

  07 Buell XB12STT, (Two) 12 Suzuki DR650 SE 72BMWR75/5 KIA @ 243K
Here's a link with troubleshooting for your bike.

Troubleshooting & maintenance guide, Fuel Pump, Battery & Charging, Brake Bleeding
Sep 11th 2016, 04:30 PM   #6
 CaptainAwesome's Avatar
 
  Jan 2016
  WA

  Lowrider S
Thanks for that link, I'll read further into it, I'm just coming back in from the garage now and a bit done with it, lol.

I had found a how-to with an R1, not the exact same bike but I know they use a lot of the same parts as the FZ1, enough to figure out some things.

Off the 3 white wires going into the R/R from the stator, at idle I was to be 20 volts AC, and 70 volts AC when at about 5k rpm. I was at 5.6 and 7. The ohms was supposed to be at .18-.23 (after adjustment for tool calibration), was at .1-2, but didn't hold. Went from 0 to .2, unsure if that's normal at this time or it's supposed to hold.

The Red and black wires read the same as the battery, and a little lower when the bike was idling, and it ran rougher with it unplugged.


So the wiring should be good from the R/R. The R/R should be good, looks like it's just the stator unless I'm missing something. Suppose I'll trace those wires from the stator, but I'd be surprised.

Bummer. The R/R is must easier to replace.
Sep 11th 2016, 04:43 PM   #7
 TimberMoto's Avatar
 
  Jan 2016
  Salem, Oregon

  Maybe next year?
Hopefully this will help.



Sent via HTC One_M8
Sep 11th 2016, 04:50 PM   #8
 SXVINWA's Avatar
 
  Feb 2016
  Tri-Cities

Quote:
Originally Posted by MMcN49
Before replacing anything you need to do a little troubleshooting. There should be a diagnostic procedure in your factory shop manual. If you don't own a manual that should be your first purchase.

With the manual and a Volt-Ohmmeter you should be able to figure it out. I'm not familiar with your bike and cannot make any suggestions where to begin.
I agree with the above statements. You may find that it is nothing more than a fractured charging circuit fuse. No point in getting inside the engine unless you are pretty sure the problem is internal. It is usually easy to tell if there is a stator problem with a visual inspection, though...
Sep 11th 2016, 04:55 PM   #9
 SXVINWA's Avatar
 
  Feb 2016
  Tri-Cities

Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptainAwesome
Thanks for that link, I'll read further into it, I'm just coming back in from the garage now and a bit done with it, lol.

I had found a how-to with an R1, not the exact same bike but I know they use a lot of the same parts as the FZ1, enough to figure out some things.

Off the 3 white wires going into the R/R from the stator, at idle I was to be 20 volts AC, and 70 volts AC when at about 5k rpm. I was at 5.6 and 7. The ohms was supposed to be at .18-.23 (after adjustment for tool calibration), was at .1-2, but didn't hold. Went from 0 to .2, unsure if that's normal at this time or it's supposed to hold.

The Red and black wires read the same as the battery, and a little lower when the bike was idling, and it ran rougher with it unplugged.


So the wiring should be good from the R/R. The R/R should be good, looks like it's just the stator unless I'm missing something. Suppose I'll trace those wires from the stator, but I'd be surprised.

Bummer. The R/R is must easier to replace.
Unbalanced readings of the three phase power coming out of the stator tells you everything you need to know. Usually the resistance values are not conclusive because unless you actually use a DLRO meter you don't get accurate values.
Sep 11th 2016, 06:13 PM   #10
 Spydrmon's Avatar
 
  Mar 2016
  Bothell

Another resource.
Check 2/3 the way down the page for the flow charts: service section10

0 ohms is not good when measuring resistance across the stator. That might be your probe connection. If so, retest again with some alligator clips and safety pins to get in there good.
Sep 11th 2016, 09:07 PM   #11
 Damon Mon Wai's Avatar
Inspector Gadget
 
  Jan 2016
  Seattle

Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptainAwesome
Off the 3 white wires going into the R/R from the stator, at idle I was to be 20 volts AC, and 70 volts AC when at about 5k rpm. I was at 5.6 and 7.
So you are supposed to get 20 VAC at idle and 70 VAC at 5k and you were only getting 5.6 VAC and 7 VAC? If so then yes its your stator.
Sep 12th 2016, 05:57 AM   #12
 MMcN49's Avatar
 
  Jan 2016
  Small Island Surrounded by Puget Sound

  07 Buell XB12STT, (Two) 12 Suzuki DR650 SE 72BMWR75/5 KIA @ 243K
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spydrmon
0 ohms is not good when measuring resistance across the stator. That might be your probe connection. If so, retest again with some alligator clips and safety pins to get in there good.
+1. Parts are expensive. Using little tricks to confirm your findings is always good. If you don't thoroughly test you really don't know whats going on. Never just throw parts at a problem.
SX4 likes this.
Sep 13th 2016, 03:37 PM   #13
 CaptainAwesome's Avatar
 
  Jan 2016
  WA

  Lowrider S
Double checked it, still holding about 5-7v, and the ohms still jumps (but is way below what it should be anyways). Nothing else jumps so I don't think it's my tools.


Anyone know of a good source for one? Motoplex wanted $300, that seems excessive to me.
Sep 13th 2016, 04:41 PM   #14
 Spydrmon's Avatar
 
  Mar 2016
  Bothell

Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptainAwesome
Double checked it, still holding about 5-7v, and the ohms still jumps (but is way below what it should be anyways). Nothing else jumps so I don't think it's my tools.


Anyone know of a good source for one? Motoplex wanted $300, that seems excessive to me.
If you want OEM your looking at that range or this: Yamaha Motorcycle OEM Parts, Flemington Yamaha

If not:
Call Bent Bikes or look here: Yamaha FZ1 Stators, Magnetos & Parts | eBay
Sep 14th 2016, 06:08 AM   #15
 MMcN49's Avatar
 
  Jan 2016
  Small Island Surrounded by Puget Sound

  07 Buell XB12STT, (Two) 12 Suzuki DR650 SE 72BMWR75/5 KIA @ 243K
Bent Bike can be a good source for used parts but beware, buying used "Electrics" is always a Crap Shoot even if you're a pretty experienced mechanic. Its a lot of work to R&R a stator.

Several of the ebay links are for Rick's Motorsport Electrics. I've bought parts from them for my DR. Quality is pretty good and they stand by their products. If you have questions during the install you can call and speak to someone who knows what they're doing. On their web site they list rebuilt FZ1 stators for $145.
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