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Rustydust Aug 27th 2016 07:09 AM

Other than motorcycle oil
 
Hey Guys

For those of you out there that change their own oil, and I suspect that's most of you, if you do not use motorcycle specific oil then what kind of oil do you use? I have read for years now that Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 is one of the very best oils out there for motorcycle use. Yes, the manufactures all want you to use their oils (as if they have their own refineries!) and a lot of us do. But after reading a test done on oils (both car and motorcycle specific) done by and independent laboratories by MCN magazine and seeing how poorly so many motorcycles oils did (including the Honda brand which I was using at the time) I made the change to the winner (Mobil 1 15W-50) I started using that. 93,000 miles later all is well. Very well even.

Yes, I know. Many shudder at the thought of not using $18 a quart motorcycle oil in their bikes instead of the $25 a gallon (synthetic) oils with the "nothing but the best for my baby" thought. But if the test show (and they do) that oils such as Rotella T6 are great for motorcycle use, even high revving ones, why not use it? My riding buddy with a 2009 Kawasaki Concours sent a sample to Keystone labs after running it in his bike for 10,000 miles and they said all was well and even suggested going longer between changes from now on! That Rotella T6 must be some good stuff!

Sentinel Aug 27th 2016 07:23 AM

oh gawd. here we go.

FeralRdr Aug 27th 2016 07:44 AM

UNLEASH THE OPINIONS!!!!!! :eek:

Scribbles Aug 27th 2016 07:48 AM

In, before this becomes a complete shit-fest.

I use Rotella T6 in my 20 yo Japanese bike. It has the JASO-MA rating required, and I change it more often than the manufacturer recommends.

A friend of mine who does all his own wrenching (including replacing valves), runs super-tech oil in some of his bikes. He figures changing the oil more often is better than using the most expensive oil.

bcj Aug 27th 2016 07:49 AM

Have used T6 on my SV since I got it eight years ago.
It's one of the cheaper, readily available synthetics. SV likes it ok.

Tried T6 in the BMW K1200RS then took off on a road trip in eastern WA.
It was rolling coal like like a lifted truck bro going up the long grades.
Little black snowflake like pieces out the tailpipe.
When I got back, I replaced that with Castrol 10-40 that I had been using before and all went back to normal.
No wet clutch to worry about on the Kbike.

MMcN49 Aug 27th 2016 08:23 AM

To answer your question directly I use Red Line 20W50 Motorcycle oil in both Buell's and the DR650 year round. This oil may or may not be as good as any other oil but I use it because they actually list their anti-wear additive package and the quantity of each additive. Where I live and ride 20W50 is within the year round temperature range for all three bikes. I no longer ride when temperatures fall much below 40.

Zinc, Phosphorus and Molybdenum are metallic anti-wear pressure additives. They do an excellent job of protecting the engine and use to be in many motor oils until catalytic converters came along. Engine blow by, (all engines have a little) with these additives slowly kill catalytic converters so they've been removed them from many oils.

If these additives aren't listed in the oil's data sheet then they're probably not there. I've not found another oil that lists all three of these anti-wear additives.

TYPICAL PROPERTIES, Red Line 20W50 Motorcycle Oil

API Service Class SJ/SG/SH JASO MA
SAE Viscosity Grade (Motor Oil) 20W50
Vis @ 100C, cSt 20.1
Vis @ 40C, cSt 141
Viscosity Index 165
CCS Viscosity, Poise, @ C 50@ -15
Pour Point, C -45
Pour Point, F -49
Zinc, avg PPM 2125
Phosphorus, avg PPM 2100
Molybdenum, avg PPM 425
NOACK Evaporation Loss,1hr @ 482F (250C), % 5
% Viscosity Loss, 30 Pass ASTM D6278 0
HTHS Vis, cP @150C, ASTM D4741 6.1

motoman Aug 27th 2016 09:55 AM

You say Rotella 5w-40, then you use Mobil 1 15w-50??


Sent via Nexus 7

motoman Aug 27th 2016 09:58 AM

The issue is, no oil will fail. Some may provide more protection than others over the very long term, probably longer than you will have the bike. And possibly cost more than a rebuild!

Sent via Nexus 7

MMcN49 Aug 27th 2016 10:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by motoman (Post 24509)
The issue is, no oil will fail. Some may provide more protection than others over the very long term, probably longer than you will have the bike. And possibly cost more than a rebuild!

Sent via Nexus 7

I get RL at Cycle Gear. CG has lots of discount types, (Active Duty, Retired & Disabled Vets, plus others). Even at full price it doesn't break the bank. The Buell's take 3.5 quarts and the DR 2.5.

Wrench Aug 28th 2016 07:41 AM

I found the Valvoline VR1 20/50 racing oil works fantastic in my little piece of Chinese junk.

The oil stays cleaner longer, the cam chain premature wear problem disappeared, and the clutch works very noticeably better.

outdoorgb Aug 29th 2016 05:56 AM

I only use the stuff which is refined off the thighs of 26-year-old virgins.

SilvieFox Aug 29th 2016 07:09 AM

i only use unicorn blood and orphan tears in my bikes, thats how you get the real mad power out of it

PeteN95 Aug 29th 2016 08:30 AM

Mobil 1 15w-50 for over 30 years in all my bikes and no troubles.

SmokeyMcNug Aug 29th 2016 09:02 AM

I installed a flux capacitor so i just use garbage

JohnnyM Aug 29th 2016 03:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scribbles (Post 24495)
In, before this becomes a complete shit-fest.

I use Rotella T6 in my 20 yo Japanese bike. It has the JASO-MA rating required, and I change it more often than the manufacturer recommends.

This. All of this.

Quote:

Originally Posted by SmokeyMcNug (Post 24596)
I installed a flux capacitor so i just use garbage

Oil, not fuel. Jeez, man...get it together.


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