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Mechanical and Technical Mechanical and technical topics, help, and discussions

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  • 1 Post By route246wraith
  • 1 Post By ZXtasy
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Mar 22nd 2019, 08:11 AM   #1
 
  Mar 2018
  Gig Harbor

  2008 BMW R1200GS Adventure
2008 R1200GS Adv - Will not Idle

26k miles. Did an oil change about 500 miles ago. Never had an issue with it.

Rode it home about 45 miles, then made a quick 5 mile trip for Dr. Appt. When I got home again, I had to go through the house to open the garage. I turned the bike off, went inside, opened the garage, started the bike, and rode it into the garage.

When I stopped it in the garage, the engine was very choppy (revving up and down between 500 and 1200 rpm). Tried to give it a little gas, then it died. Wouldn't restart.

It turned over fine, but wouldn't start. Left it on a trickle charger overnight just in case it was battery related. Went out to the garage this morning and it started right up.

Left it idling and went inside. I heard it die after about 2-3 minutes. Wouldn't start again right away. I left it for about 20 minutes and it started again. If I hold the RPMs at 2000+, it will run, although the RPMs are moving a lot while I'm holding the throttle steady. If I let the throttle go, it will drop back to normal RPM range, sputter a bit, then die.

Spark plugs were all changed at 16k miles. Regular oil changes. It's not getting hot or anything.

I was thinking it was a fuel pump issue, but with it maintaining high RPMs and not low RPMs, I'm thinking it may be a sensor issue?

Could really use some quick help on this. This is my daily commuter that I use to go to/from Seattle every day.
Mar 22nd 2019, 08:58 AM   #2
 ZXtasy's Avatar
 
  Jan 2016
  Moses Lake, WA

  2013 Kawasaki Concours C-14, 2005 ZX-10R Kawasaki (Nekkid), '99 Yamaha TW-200
My guess is Bosch Motronic FI issues, though by 2008 they may have changed or were supposed to fix some of the issues i had with my 1997. It needed synched every 3K miles it seemed. Could be an air temp sensor...
Mar 22nd 2019, 09:34 AM   #3
 WarpShatner7's Avatar
 
  Jan 2016
  Portland

Almost certainly the fueling system. If this kind of thing happens just once and goes away, especially this time of year in a bike that isn't ridden every day it's usually the fuel itself or something sticking in a throttle body or injector: vapor lock, moisture, etc.

But you ride every day and it's recurred under various conditions. Check the simple stuff, like that the hoses are connected and snug at both ends and the throttle positions are the same on both sides for any given grip position. If you have a manometer it would be interesting to note if it's badly out of balance, as that would suggest that the problem is on one side and not with some shared part of the system -- but it probably wouldn't tell you much more than that. Think you're going to be taking it to a shop.
Mar 22nd 2019, 10:51 AM   #4
 route246wraith's Avatar
 
  Jan 2018
  near the Socialist Republic of Seattle

  '13 BMW S1000RR
I've run across this a few times in other people's GSes. Seems common that the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) goes bad (without warning), and the engine hunts for idle.
Sync the TPS by turning key on and twisting the throttle to full stop both ways; Turn Key to ON (do not fire motor), Twist from Full stop to Full throttle three times, turn the key to OFF. Apparently, this re-teaches the ECU where the throttle position limits are.
Now go for a ride and see if it's any better. Free, and takes only a few seconds to do - can't hurt.
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Mar 22nd 2019, 10:58 AM   #5
 WarpShatner7's Avatar
 
  Jan 2016
  Portland

Quote:
Originally Posted by route246wraith
I've run across this a few times in other people's GSes. Seems common that the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) goes bad (without warning), and the engine hunts for idle.
Sync the TPS by turning key on and twisting the throttle to full stop both ways; Turn Key to ON (do not fire motor), Twist from Full stop to Full throttle three times, turn the key to OFF. Apparently, this re-teaches the ECU where the throttle position limits are.
Now go for a ride and see if it's any better. Free, and takes only a few seconds to do - can't hurt.
What he said. Wish I'd thought of it, since I do this every dozen or so rides, or when the weather's changed or it's been parked unridden for a while.

Edited by WarpShatner7 on Mar 22nd 2019 at 11:05 AM
Mar 22nd 2019, 05:50 PM   #6
 ZXtasy's Avatar
 
  Jan 2016
  Moses Lake, WA

  2013 Kawasaki Concours C-14, 2005 ZX-10R Kawasaki (Nekkid), '99 Yamaha TW-200
Wow, I forgot about that Secret Handshake thing ones were doing...Meh, do not miss BMW ownership.
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Mar 23rd 2019, 07:17 AM   #7
 MMcN49's Avatar
 
  Jan 2016
  Small Island Surrounded by Puget Sound

  07 Buell XB12STT, (Two) 12 Suzuki DR650 SE 72BMWR75/5 KIA @ 243K
If you don't test you don't know. You should never just throw new parts at the problem unless you've done some troubleshooting. Unfortunately Beemer diagnostic scanners can go for $300-$800.

Suggestions:

-Do everything outlined by others
-With a cold engine inspect the spark plugs
-Measure the resistance of the plug ignition wires, (especially if they're suppression wires)
-Measure the resistance of the ignition coil
You're looking to see if everything is within spec.

Warm everything up. Try to keep the engine running until everything is good and warm/hot and up to temperature. Retake the resistance readings and see if anything changes.
Mar 27th 2019, 08:24 PM   #8
 
  Mar 2018
  Gig Harbor

  2008 BMW R1200GS Adventure
Thanks, guys. For some reason I didn't get any notification that you had responded.

I immediately thought of the TPS and found the same guidance Route246wraith shared. Didn't fix the issue, unfortunately.

Someone over on AdvRider suggested checking the Fuel Pump Controller. Apparently they're so prone to failure that a lot of GS riders carry a bypass cable with them at all times.

Just got done testing a quick and dirty bypass and it idled until it was ready to overheat, so I turned it off. Seems the FPC is my issue.

The link to the discussion on AdvRider is HERE, if you're interested.

You can see from the photos that there was water around the connector on the fuel pump. This had corroded along with FPC plug that connects to it.

I ended up finding a short inside the FPC as well. When I was trying to determine which terminal was +12V and which was Ground, I got +12V on both terminals. It's probably corrosion that made it to the internals, but I'll know when I take it apart later.
Mar 28th 2019, 04:18 AM   #9
 ZXtasy's Avatar
 
  Jan 2016
  Moses Lake, WA

  2013 Kawasaki Concours C-14, 2005 ZX-10R Kawasaki (Nekkid), '99 Yamaha TW-200
Glad you got it figured out! If you have not upgraded or the 08 maybe came with, make sure you get the metal fuel tank/line/pump connections. A couple of friends with 03 and 05? GS's have had the OEM nylon ones snap and get a good gas wash.
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