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Oct 10th 2016, 07:18 AM   #16
 
  Jul 2016
  Clackamas

  2016 Versys 1000 2014 Versys 650 2006 KLR 650
I picked up a pair of Gerbing Gyde battery powered gloves (7.4v).
Cabela's had a $114 shipped deal so I had to go. Retail is $259.

Three modes and they run 4, 6, 8 hours (reported). Should be fine for my commutes this winter.
Oct 10th 2016, 09:28 AM   #17
 orangeradish's Avatar
 
  Mar 2016
  Oly

  Weestrom
Heated gear is pretty sweet if you ride year round. One thing to consider is to skip the pants for the time being. If your riding pants are windproof, you may be all set with just a jacket. Consider dropping $80 or so on heated grips. I ride in cold, wet weather, and a jacket and grips take care of me pretty well.
Oct 10th 2016, 10:22 AM   #18
 FeralRdr's Avatar
 
  Jan 2016
  US

An important consideration before purchasing heated gear.

One critical issue that many folks overlook when considering heated clothing, is whether their bike's electrical system has the capacity to provide adequate power for the gear. A compounding problem, is that the bike manufacturers often don't provide any specific information regarding their bikes actual "Excess Electrical Capacity" (EEC).

One source that might help in this regard is Powerlet. On their website, they provide a database (Shop by Vehicle) that provides some bike specific information. Although the database isn't what I would call "complete", it is rather extensive. Additionally, to help with applications not in their database, they do provide a guide for calculating your bike's "EEC".

Let me share an anecdote. A few years ago, one of the Vancouverites was out riding their DR650 on a cold winter day with friends. The rider had on a heated jacket liner (powered off the bike). Within a few hours, the bike died while going down the road. Since the DR was still relatively new (a year old or so), they suspected that the issue was the heated gear drawing too much power. They were eventually able to get the bike started, and suggested that the rider keep the heated gear off to get home. Unfortunately, the rider had no other gear to layer up in, so they eventually had to turn the gear back on. Which resulted in the bike dying again. Fortunately, they were able to restart the bike and make it home, but it was definitely a miserable experience. It is for this reason, that I believe that battery operated gear is sometimes a better option, so long as you bring an extra battery pack for longer day rides.
Oct 10th 2016, 11:07 AM   #19
 Candiya's Avatar
 
  Jan 2016
  Bremerton

  BMW F800R, Honda CBR250R
Another consideration with getting the most out of your heated gear is how you layer. I have heard that it is best to use a thin layer underneath, then the heated jacket liner, then a mid-layer then the waterproof shell. This may be overkill for many people, but I am typically quite cold, and this has made a big difference in the cold spots that I used to get with my heated jacket liner.

I use a winter-weight underarmour mock turtleneck, then the heated liner, then a thin down "sweater", then my motorcycle jacket with the built-in liner removed. This combo gets the heat close to the skin, and the down insulates and keeps the heat inside the jacket. With this combo, I'm comfortable (and even hot) when riding in temps below freezing. (I rarely ride when it's that cold, but the New Year's ride is pretty infamous for having unpredictable temps.)

Enjoy the heat!
Oct 11th 2016, 10:01 PM   #20
 Quinndog's Avatar
 
  Apr 2016
  Alger

  KTM 1190 Adventure, FJR 1300, plated WR450F and dirt bikes
Well so far so good with the "Warm and Safe" heated gear. It was fairly warm when I started the ride so I left it in the "off" position "using jacket only" and realized pretty quickly that if it's off and plugged in it goes to 33% power in case you loose or damage your controller. Turn it on and all the way down and then no heat. But it worked very well, my first heated gear so I'm getting used to the wires. When it gets COLD I will try the pants, socks and glove liners.
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